I Designed the Jungle Moc
Merrell’s founder on having the last laugh.
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Most people haven’t heard of Clark Matis, but almost every outdoors enthusiast has encountered, if not worn, one of his inventions. In addition to co-founding Merrell Footwear in 1981, he served as a product-development lead until his retirement in 2023. During that time, he patented hundreds of shoe-production techniques and was responsible for designing some of the brand’s most iconic models, including the originalJungle Mocback in 1998.
These Merrells have been a part of my personal Vermont uniform since moving here in 2021, and they’re a certified Strategist-staff favorite. Senior writerLiza Corsilloand travel writerKat Gillespieare both satisfied wearers, and senior editorWinnie Yang’s four-person household currently owns five pairs. We’ve also spotted them on actressKate Berlant(who calls the shoes “a direct portal to the erotic”). The Jungle Moc is undeniably having a moment, and I was curious to get its origin story directly from the source.
The first thing I noticed about Matis is that his walrus mustache still appears as bushy today as it was back in the late 1960s when he was an Olympic cross-country skier. On our call, he spoke proudly of the intergenerational popularity of his designs. But I was surprised by Matis’s lack of sentimentality in recounting the process that led to a shoe as charmingly quirky as the Jungle Moc. To hear him tell it, he simply saw a hole in the market and recognized that Merrell was holding the necessary pieces to fill it.
This conversation has been edited and condensed for length and clarity.
What was the inspiration behind the Jungle Moc?
At the time, we were trying to figure out something that would take Merrell beyond hiking boots, so we decided to come up with this new category called “After Sport,” which everyone has now. Luckily, we were the first to think of it. We wanted to come up with footwear that could define the category and put us on the map, and the Jungle Moc was my answer.
We already had a model called theJungle Runner[discontinued long ago], which was a multisport model with a cool-looking sole, but it wasn’t selling that well. So I said, “What if we tried putting a new upper on that?”We already had a casual double gore [the elasticated cutouts] slip-on moc upper from the European line, so I took that moc upper and put on the Jungle sole, and the rest was what we call “Merrell magic.”
When we showed this shoe at the trade shows, everybody laughed at us. Double-gore designs were shoes for old men. They weren’t sexy. But I think the Jungle Runner sole brought that sexiness. No one had seen anything like it. I remember talking to my boss about it, and I said, “I think we’re going to sell 10,000 of these things,” and he responded, “If you don’t sell 100,000 pairs, then it’s not successful.”
How did the release go?
We introduced it worldwide at the same time. We had the U.S. and Europe, but it bombed in the U.S. We were not selling it. But it became a fashion item in Europe. It was in the top shops in London, so it became this casual icon. We actually shipped all our U.S. shoes to Europe initially because we weren’t selling them here. But then it became a hit here, too. So we ended up with the last laugh.
I was trying to figure out how many millions of pairs we’ve sold, but couldn’t. I went back and looked at a chart from around 2015, and we were doing 800,000 to 900,000 pairs per year, which was incredible.
When I travel, I just cannot believe the number of people I see wearing these things. You see kids, adults, old guys … It really has hit a chord with everybody, and it’s amazing after all these years that it’s still so popular. I’ll be riding the chairlift with strangers, and when I tell them I worked for Merrell, they’ll say they own five pairs!
Could you unpack a bit more of what goes into that “Merrell magic”?
One of the keys to Merrell’s success is the last, which is what we call the form that the shoes are made on. That determines how they will fit. In footwear, we say the last comes first, and I had already come up with really good lasts for both men’s and women’s feet at a time when our competitors like Salomon and Asolo were using unisex lasts. Fantastic fit is Merrell’s trademark, and these lasts probably made Merrell more successful than any other factor.
What is it about the Jungle Moc in particular? Do you think there are any specific parts of the design or materials that contribute to its continued popularity?
Our original tagline years ago was “The best in the world.” And people would ask, “Well, best in the world, what does that mean?” and I say to them,At price value, we are the best in the world. That means when I build a shoe, I’m using the best price-value materials I can find. For example, the Jungle Moc liner uses a material called Nylex, which is more expensive than your basic lining. But it feels comfortable on the foot and it wicks moisture away. I’m looking at every feature of every component to make sure the value is there.
Also, Wolverine [the company that purchased the brand in 1997] had a factory that made pigskin. So we were obligated to use pigskin. We couldn’t use split leather [a cheaper grade of cow leather made from leftover skin]. And pigskin takes color incredibly well. So when we did the first presentation of the Jungle Moc in an auditorium in Rockford, Michigan, with 500 people in attendance, we were able to present this incredible collection of men’s and women’s shoes in all these different colors, including blue and pink. Outdoors-industry people couldn’t believe it.
Is there anything about your personal design process that you felt played a part in its success?
There’s never a menu that clearly says,Do this and it’s going to equal that. The key is, like Steve Jobs said,Think different. I think if you look at Merrell through the years, we thought differently about how things might go together, and that’s how we were able to take it to Salomon — and everyone else.
I’ll also add that anybody can come up with a shoe, but coming up with a final product that makes sense is a much harder problem to solve.
Are there any other highlights from the catalogue that you are particularly proud to have either played a part in or inspired?
No. 1 is theMoab, which is what originally put Merrell on the map. We’ve sold millions of pairs, and we’re on our third variation. It was one of the first boots to use a Vibram sole, which gives you great longevity. And that durable pigskin.
What do you make of the Jungle Moc’s recently renewed relevance amongfashionand streetwear circles?
I think it’s great. It’s always been a fashion item in Japan. It keeps the Jungle Moc alive, and I love it. It makes me feel good that the shoe I invented is still loved by people.
Are you still wearing your Jungle Mocs?
Yes, I am. The original black suede is my favorite. All my sisters wear them. And my dad did too — he lived to be 102.
Some of our favorite Jungle Mocs
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Matis’s favorite variation is the original black-on-black suede, which is also the version I bought and wore continuously for nearly two years after moving to Vermont.
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The women’s version of the original.
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Travel writer Kat Gillespie owns this lighter-colored pair.
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In addition to her own pair, senior editor Winnie Yang likes the kids’ versions (available for toddlers and little and big kids), which make getting out the door so much easier.
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Merrell’s current chief product officer, Noreen Naroo-Pucci, cited the EVO Woven as one of the ways Merrell is leaning into the fashion world’s renewed interest in the classic design.
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