How I Get My Very Soft Hair to Hold a Style
Having soft hair doesn’t sound like an actual problem, especially to someone who is always trying to soften their coarse strands. But there is a downside to having silky strands: They don’t hold a style, at least not easily. My professional blowouts can fall flat within hours. My curls tend to loosen minutes after leaving the salon. And I find a lot of conditioning products just leave my hair limp.
At the root of the issue: fine strands. Fine hair has a smaller diameter than medium or thick/coarse hair. These thin strands have a smoother texture than other hair types. My fine hair isn’t damaged, which, again, doesn’t sound like a problem, but it does make my hair even softer. I haven’t dyed my hair in years and do minimal heat styling, so the cuticle layer lies flat and smooth and my hair isn’t very porous, contributing to its slipperiness. I’ve had stylists tell me I should get some highlights to create a little damage, which would give my hair more body. (The lightening process swells your hair’s cuticle, so hair has more texture.)
As the gray strands are just starting to sprout, I may do the highlighting thing soon, but I’ve also come up with a styling regimen that gives my hair more body and grip — a mix of trial and error and stylists’ tips. When I stray from it, my hair is often too slippery, but when I do all the steps, my hair has more body and my curling-iron waves make it through the day.
My soft-hair stylers
Start in the shower
Your shampoo and conditioner play a big role in regulating hair’s softness. I start with a thickening shampoo. These shampoos fatten up hair’s diameter, giving it more texture. Lately, I’ve been using Kerativ Redensify Reset Shampoo, which is designed for thinning hair (yes, I have that issue, too) and noticed that my hair feels thicker on the days I use it. Kerativ founder dermatologist Joyce Park told me it contains velvet-flower seed extract, a peptide that penetrates the hair fibers and expands the diameter without weighing hair down.
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A lightweight conditioner is key, too. Rich conditioners will leave my hair too soft and limp. I use one that’s specifically formulated for fine hair. If it doesn’t say on the label, look for words like volumizing, thickening, body-building, etc. Also check for strengthening proteins such as hydrolyzed rice, wheat, or keratin. These bolster fine strands so they have more body, at least temporarily.
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Prime hair for styling
I always thought the idea of a hair primer was marketing and part of the skinification of hair trend, but my hairstylist, Rachel Banschick, co-owner of Salon Shandee in Farmingdale, New York, explained that hair primers prep hair so the products you apply on top grip better. She primes my hair with R+Co Bleu Essential Hair Tonic, which has a light, flexible hold and gives hair memory, so it will retain its shape after styling. I bought it to use at home and it does make a noticeable difference in my styling routine.
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Lift roots and plump up strands
After priming, I layer on a root-lifting spray. You want one with flexible polymers to give hair hold without leaving it stiff or sticky. Look for a formula that also thickens up individual strands. Spray root to tip.
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Focus on drying your roots
When I blow-dry my hair, I concentrate on lifting the roots with my fingers or a round brush, making sure they’re completely dry. If roots are even the slightest bit damp, your style will collapse.
Use a dry texturizing spray
If dry shampoo and a flexible hairspray had a baby, it would be a dry texture spray. It adds volume and grit to hair. I use it on dry hair before I curl with a curling iron to give it grip, and then again after for a little more volume. It’s also great to revive straight hair that fell flat. I lift sections of my hair and spray it on the roots and use my hands to tousle.
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