Is There Anything I Can Do About My Thinning Hair?

You may have heard ofDHT shampoosthat promise to stop or slow thinning with just a lather. “DHT binds to androgen receptors in hair follicles, triggering follicle miniaturization — the gradual shrinkage of the follicle that leads to thinner, shorter, weaker hair over time,” explains Shab Caspara, trichologist and founder of Caspara Studio in New York City. DHT-blocking shampoos aim to disrupt the DHT-hair-loss pathway, using a variety of different compounds, as well as support overall scalp and hair health. However, experts say it is best to use a DHT-blocking shampoo in conjunction with other therapies, like topical minoxidil (more on that below), since they aren’t potent enough on their own to reverse hair loss. “If someone is already using these treatments, a DHT shampoo may add mild local support at the follicle or reduce inflammation,” says Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in New York City. If you’re looking to add a bottle to your shower, Hers Triple Threat Shampoo contains two of the most commonly studied DHT-blocking ingredients, saw palmetto and pumpkin-seed oil, as well as biotin.

For styling products, Dickson recommends using Kevin Murphy’s Body Mass spray from the same line as the shampoo and conditioner above, which she says offers “big volume, no stickiness.” It’s also a three-in-one product that works as a heat protectant, volumizer, and a lash-growth peptide for your scalp.

Incorporating a scalp-focused treatment into your routine is also essential. “They work to remove excess product buildup, refresh the scalp, and strengthen strands at the root,” says Dr. Lee. “A healthy scalp sets the stage for healthier, more resilient hair.” Twice a month, she recommends using a scalp-focused product like Briogeo’s scrub, especially if you are experiencing dandruff, an oily scalp, or an itchy scalp. The scrub is formulated with jojoba beads, which will gently exfoliate away dead skin and product buildup and will allow your other hair-growth products to penetrate better. It also has ingredients like tea-tree oil and mint to soothe.

Once the scalp is primed, you can try a scalp serum. Almost every beauty editor I know, including two at the Strategist, recommendsHarklinikken’sscalp serum Hair Gain Extract.Veteran beauty writer Linda Dyetthad been applying it nightly for three years when she reviewed the Danish brand for the first time. “It’s a liquid consistency, so there’s none of the viscosity, greasiness, or tackiness that you might expect from a serum. It dries quickly,” she says. After just six weeks of use, she noticed the telltale signs of peach fuzz growing on her scalp. “The time and money all adds up,” she admits, but she says the results are worth it. “I love the cascades of bouncy curls at the back of my head, the knife-thin partings where my curls separate, and running my fingers through my thicker hair.”

If you’re frustrated trying to add volume while styling your hair, Dickson recommends an updated take on an old-school trick. “Hot rollers are my secret weapon for everything from polished lift to full-on bombshell volume.” She calls the T3 volumizing rollers “perfect.” The set comes with two different heat settings and, once warmed up, the brand recommends rolling a one-inch section around the roller, then using a clip to secure. Make sure you place the side of the clip with the longer teeth over the top to prevent creasing. After allowing the curl to set for 10 to 20 minutes, you can remove the roller and should be left with lifted volume that lasts all day.

When you’re dealing with thinning hair, you want to minimize the damage done on the hair you do have. To prevent breakage — which will make the hair appear even thinner — while brushing, Dickson loves Mason Pearson, an over-130-year-old British brand. But she specifically says to go for the mixed-bristle brushes, which use a combination of nylon and boar bristle that will give the hair a lot of shine without breakage. This is because the soft boar bristles don’t create as much friction on the hair as plastic bristles and can better disperse your scalp’s natural oils throughout the strand, while the nylon bristles detangle without snagging.

If you’re looking for round brushes for your blowouts, Dickson is a huge fan of Ergo, which uses flexible bristles that are more gentle on hair.

“For those who need more targeted treatment, prescription oral medications such as finasteride, minoxidil, spironolactone, and dutasteride are options,” explains Dr. Lee.

Of the above, FDA-approved minoxidil is arguably the most famous and has been used for decades to help regrow hair and is the only option available over the counter in its topical form. Your dermatologist can help you decide between oral and topical minoxidil, and Dickson notes there are pros and cons to each. “The topical works well but can be sticky and may mess with hair-color results. While oral minoxidil is super effective, it can cause hair growth in unexpected places.” Whichever one you choose, consistency will be key. “Stop using it, and you’ll lose what you gained,” she warns. And it may take a few months to see results.Strategist writer Erin Schwartz, who began using topical minoxidil after noticing some receding after starting testosterone, discovered this hack after speaking to their dermatologist, who pointed them to Costco, of all places, to buy it. “Kirkland Signature Minoxidil isn’t sexy, but that ‘aesthetic’ DTC packaging will cost you almost four times as much. I’m happy to spend that saving at the barbers, instead,” Schwartz wrote. Their other tip? “The formulation with the best value is branded for men, but works for all genders.”

Since you can’t open your Instagram account these days without seeing an ad for Nutrafol, I asked our experts what they thought about the popular hair-growth supplement. Dr. Lee has this to say: “Nutrafol is well known anecdotally for improving hair quality and growth, with many people noticing reduced shedding. In my own patients, especially after COVID, a reduction in shedding was the most common benefit reported,” she says. But both Dr. Lee and board-certified trichologistShab Casparacaution that supplements are just one way to optimize the environment for hair growth and are best used in conjunction with other strategies.

“The only in-office treatment with some evidence for improving hair growth is platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy, which uses your own concentrated growth factors to help stimulate the follicles,” explains Dr. Lee, though she doesn’t totally rule out other therapies such as low-level laser therapy or proprietary laser treatments. “They are supported more by anecdotal results than large-scale clinical data,” she says. “The light energy is absorbed by hair follicles regardless of density and will energize hair follicles, extending the hair growth phase,” she explains, though she notes that the difference here is that the light therapy may take longer to penetrate through the denser hair versus the thinner areas. “That being said, many of these treatments are low-risk and can be worth trying for the right patient, especially if used alongside a broader hair health plan.” These therapies can be expensive since they require multiple sessions.

Certified trichologist Mandy Buechnersays at-home devices, like laser caps or combs, make it easier to use consistently since you don’t need to go to an office and only require a onetime investment. “Adding low-level laser light therapy to your routine can help stimulate blood flow, energize weakened follicles, and extend the hair-growth phase,” she explains. And if you’d like an anecdotal recommendation, Cut Shop editor Hanna Flanagan tried out HigherDose’s cap, which discreetly places the red-light bulbs inside a baseball cap, and reported that her shedding had definitely improved and that her hair felt stronger and thicker after three months of testing.